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A sketch, this time. The show this weekend was overbooked, so I have another month, and I'm mostly pleased with that.
I ended up rethinking the cut rather drastically after the change of fabric plans. The original idea was full cups cut separately, a v-neck, not too deep, and wide, continuous straps - rather like a pre-1950's bra. Still like that idea, but it wouldn't give the right impression in this fabric, and once I decided on doing some kind of hussar style braid decoration on the front to cover the busk I had to ditch the separate cups.
The current version is very like my favourite dress. I'm totally repeating myself, which is a bit irksome, but it finally feels right again, with the fabric and everything, so I'm going for it anyway. Five panels per side, though, not six as I had planned. The back will be cut like a bodice, going all the way up to the neck, and I don't want to mess around with three back panels right now. With five panels I can cut it much like a princess-seamed bodice with an extra side piece.
Right side is the planned cut of the dress alone around the shoulder area, left side is the planned jacket. I'll do hussar braiding, like on the left. The jacket will have collar and lapels after all, but the funky incroyable kind where the lapels are pretty much separate from the upright collar (I'm telling myself that it will be less of a pain in the ass than I find modern collars and lapels) and a triangular turn-up at the elbow-length sleeves. Part of me wants to line it with a different fabric to get contrasting lapels and turn-ups, but I can't think of any other colours I'd like in the mix apart from the grey of the fabric and black braid, and black lapels seems boring and pointless, so I don't think I will.
Not sure how to treat the bottom part of the jacket in the back - very short, above the waist, I suppose, since the waist and the back lacing is to be the focus, but I'm not enthusiastic about that bit. I would like it to do something interesting, but I don't know what. I think I will see if I can figure out that old-fashioned way of cutting the shoulders, with diagonal shoulder seams that sit on the back of the shoulders, along the shoulder blades, instead of on top of the shoulders. I like how that looks, and I'm guessing that the shaping over the slope of the shoulders that's done with vertical darts on the back in modern patterns, and always look so much like an afterthought, is put into those seams instead. Beautiful and functional.
Am considering epaulets too. I think that's too much cowbell, though.
I ended up rethinking the cut rather drastically after the change of fabric plans. The original idea was full cups cut separately, a v-neck, not too deep, and wide, continuous straps - rather like a pre-1950's bra. Still like that idea, but it wouldn't give the right impression in this fabric, and once I decided on doing some kind of hussar style braid decoration on the front to cover the busk I had to ditch the separate cups.
The current version is very like my favourite dress. I'm totally repeating myself, which is a bit irksome, but it finally feels right again, with the fabric and everything, so I'm going for it anyway. Five panels per side, though, not six as I had planned. The back will be cut like a bodice, going all the way up to the neck, and I don't want to mess around with three back panels right now. With five panels I can cut it much like a princess-seamed bodice with an extra side piece.
Right side is the planned cut of the dress alone around the shoulder area, left side is the planned jacket. I'll do hussar braiding, like on the left. The jacket will have collar and lapels after all, but the funky incroyable kind where the lapels are pretty much separate from the upright collar (I'm telling myself that it will be less of a pain in the ass than I find modern collars and lapels) and a triangular turn-up at the elbow-length sleeves. Part of me wants to line it with a different fabric to get contrasting lapels and turn-ups, but I can't think of any other colours I'd like in the mix apart from the grey of the fabric and black braid, and black lapels seems boring and pointless, so I don't think I will.
Not sure how to treat the bottom part of the jacket in the back - very short, above the waist, I suppose, since the waist and the back lacing is to be the focus, but I'm not enthusiastic about that bit. I would like it to do something interesting, but I don't know what. I think I will see if I can figure out that old-fashioned way of cutting the shoulders, with diagonal shoulder seams that sit on the back of the shoulders, along the shoulder blades, instead of on top of the shoulders. I like how that looks, and I'm guessing that the shaping over the slope of the shoulders that's done with vertical darts on the back in modern patterns, and always look so much like an afterthought, is put into those seams instead. Beautiful and functional.
Am considering epaulets too. I think that's too much cowbell, though.