pimpinett: (Default)
( Aug. 18th, 2008 04:01 pm)
Various military style and other buttons and buckles, most of them still waiting for projects - suggestions welcome. The black pea coat buttons on the far left are reserved for that skirt, but it's easy to get hold of more of them.



Clockwise from bottom left: vintage 1930's/1940's metal belt buckle, American  Navy pea coat buttons, another vintage belt buckle from the same source, elderly grey plastic suspender buttons (I have tons of these and get a lot of use out of them, they are a great, fairly unusual warm shade of grey and a nice shape), black vintage glass buttons, huge black vintage metal button, vintage American Red Cross button (upside down), modern metal buttons with five-point star motif, vintage Swedish uniform buttons with three crowns on a horizontally striated background, modern black plastic buttons with star motifs and a button-like thing with a raised star - this hasn't the usual kind of button back, it looks more like a rivet of some sort. No idea what it is.

I also got a couple of pins along with a couple of larger purchases in our favourite antiques shop, just outside Sundsvall. Cheap little plastic and metal pins like these, given out to participants in marathons, sold for charity projects and the like are a dime a dozen, and most of them are not very interesting. There are cute ones, though, and they tend to cost next to nothing, so I try to go through those little boxes and bowls of single earrings and cufflinks, buttons and worthless trinkets that a lot of charity and antiques shops have for things like these.

More stuff ahead. )
pimpinett: (Grau)
( Jul. 16th, 2008 10:25 pm)
I really wasn't planning on abandoning this thing, but a lot of rather stressful real life got in the way of this and most other internet activities. Shit happens, as the platitude goes.

The corset dress hasn't happened yet. I did make a tentative pattern for it, but not much more. I've finished another outfit that's been brewing for a good while, though. It all came about because I love the subtle irony of the fact that the uniforms of the Waffen-SS Panzer divisions were black with pink piping and silver details - and it's a bright pink, too. That's the kind of colour scheme that, in this context, just begs for being parodied, tarted up and made thoroughly camp, I thought; so I did.



Not in the best taste, perhaps, but this is pastiche and parody, not an homage, just to clarify. Think of it as being in the same vein as Herr Flick and Helga of 'Allo 'Allo!

The cut of the Panzer wraps is gorgeous - here the collar and lapels are inexpertly ripped off and transformed into a tight, knee-length wiggle dress, based on the pattern I made for that Rachel-inspired dress about a year and a half ago - the dress in this post is also after the same pattern. I made the pink even pinker, and added a lot of extra piping everywhere. The cap is roughly the same shape as (one of) the originals, but the similarities pretty much end there. It would have been fun to have some bastardized version of the totenkopf and eagle on it, but I had neither the time nor the means for that when I was making it, and I'm not at all sure how I would go about that anyway, so it's not happening at the moment. I did make a failed attempt at embroidered collar insignia - maybe I'll do it later, if I can work it out.

Besides, I'm pretty happy with the badges I ended up wearing with it, which brings me to item number two for this post. That pin in my cap is often, in my scene, mistaken for an elaborate Laibach pin. It's actually a vintage silver nurse badge, but it is very true to the spirit of Laibach and NSK in the sense that it looks even more the part than the real thing does - just compare it to the actual Laibach pin on my collar. I'm always on the lookout for more accessories like that, and I got lucky browsing bakelite for a friend's birthday...

Cut for more pictures. )
A sketch, this time. The show this weekend was overbooked, so I have another month, and I'm mostly pleased with that.

I ended up rethinking the cut rather drastically after the change of fabric plans. The original idea was full cups cut separately, a v-neck, not too deep, and wide, continuous straps - rather like a pre-1950's bra. Still like that idea, but it wouldn't give the right impression in this fabric, and once I decided on doing some kind of hussar style braid decoration on the front to cover the busk I had to ditch the separate cups.

The current version is very like my favourite dress. I'm totally repeating myself, which is a bit irksome, but it finally feels right again, with the fabric and everything, so I'm going for it anyway. Five panels per side, though, not six as I had planned. The back will be cut like a bodice, going all the way up to the neck, and I don't want to mess around with three back panels right now. With five panels I can cut it much like a princess-seamed bodice with an extra side piece.



Right side is the planned cut of the dress alone around the shoulder area, left side is the planned jacket. I'll do hussar braiding, like on the left. The jacket will have collar and lapels after all, but the funky incroyable kind where the lapels are pretty much separate from the upright collar (I'm telling myself that it will be less of a pain in the ass than I find modern collars and lapels) and a triangular turn-up at the elbow-length sleeves. Part of me wants to line it with a different fabric to get contrasting lapels and turn-ups, but I can't think of any other colours I'd like in the mix apart from the grey of the fabric and black braid, and black lapels seems boring and pointless, so I don't think I will.

Not sure how to treat the bottom part of the jacket in the back - very short, above the waist, I suppose, since the waist and the back lacing is to be the focus, but I'm not enthusiastic about that bit. I would like it to do something interesting, but I don't know what. I think I will see if I can figure out that old-fashioned way of cutting the shoulders, with diagonal shoulder seams that sit on the back of the shoulders, along the shoulder blades, instead of on top of the shoulders. I like how that looks, and I'm guessing that the shaping over the slope of the shoulders that's done with vertical darts on the back in modern patterns, and always look so much like an afterthought, is put into those seams instead. Beautiful and functional.

Am considering epaulets too. I think that's too much cowbell, though.
pimpinett: (Default)
( Jan. 26th, 2008 01:32 am)
Here it is.






That button isn't really sewn on crookedly, I just missed that it had been twisted a bit when I took the photos. Nothing short of seeing it in person can do the fabric justice - it's that striped cotton I've been talking about, and I can't get over how stupid I was not to buy up a couple of extra meters of it while it was around. Now it's sold out, and I'll regret that for the rest of my life. Bah.

Anyway, I like how it turned out - the buttons and the fabric go very well together, and the buttons really stand out. I'll wear it out tomorrow, will try to snatch a few minutes to get a few decent photos of the thing on me. The dummy does a good job of showing it off, but it isn't wearing the matching garrison cap...

In other news, the European Figure Skating Championships are in full swing and I'm positively wallowing in it. God, I love tacky, glitzy figure skating costumes! I love the melodrama, the big gestures and the incredible skill, strength and grace of these people - figure skating makes great television, and it's at that dull time of the year when you often don't have anything better to do around bedtime anyway.
pimpinett: (Default)
( Jan. 6th, 2008 02:46 am)
My Red Cross buttons arrived, and they're everything I hoped they would be - significantly older than I thought, too, not bakelite (they didn't develop that particular smell in contact with hot water) but definitely some other early type of hard plastic or resin, which means that they're even prettier than I expected, but will be more fragile. No matter, though; I've decided to make the corset double-breasted, and I will use eight out of the nine buttons for that, so they will not end up on garments that are machine-washed anyway.



Lovely, aren't they? They're even pretty on the other side, too - I'm kicking myself a little for not getting a photo of that, too, but I'll do it some other day.

Speaking of buttons, I hit upon the rather obvious idea of making my own pewter buttons the other day - can't think why that hasn't occurred to me before. I used to make tin soldiers with my brother when I was a kid (well, actually I think it was more those little fantasy figures than soldiers, but that's beside the point), it's very easy to do, and as far as I remember it doesn't take a lot of expensive equipment and materials, either.
I can sculpt reasonably well, too, and I'm at my best working with tiny little things like that, so I don't think making my own molds would present that much of a problem. Just imagine, I could make my own NSK-inspired buttons, or whatever I want! I could take the subversive uniform thing a lot further.
Been busy working, traipsing around Malmö on a short weekend trip, seeing Laibach and a few other bands I don't care that much about, a couple of friends I do care very much about, and finally battling the mother of all colds. I won, but it took a while, and it was no fun at all.

The glove project hasn't made any progress, didn't really have time for it before we went among a heap of work projects, so I made another black garrison cap to match another little black wiggle dress with military-inspired details for the Malmö expedition instead. I'm getting good at it, and I have no less than four almost, but not quite identical black garrison caps now, to match two dresses, a skirt and a jacket. Maybe five, or six, I may have forgotten one or two. I don't think anyone notices much difference between them, but I feel good knowing that it's not just made of a similar plain black fabric, but the same plain black fabric as the dress, with a matching button in front.

Malmö was fun, even with that cold sneaking up on me; Laibach were very good, if not quite as good as they were at the start of the same tour a little over a year ago in Stockholm. Still, it was completely worth traveling down for, as I think it's pretty likely that we will not get to her the Volk songs on coming tours; and electriXmas, a one-night industrial festival that was held the same night in co-operation with the Laibach gig at another venue across the street, was fun, too, with a couple of good bands and lots of fun people to watch. I wore one of the aforementioned black wiggle dresses with matching garrison cap - picture behind cut. )

Now I'm having a couple of weeks off, and I think I'll use some of the time to work on a few projects of my own - I really need to begin working on some corset projects for a planned show, but I'm low on hardware at the moment, will have to do something about that. I am going to do some work on a pretty simple waist cincher for myself, in a gorgeous, sturdy black cotton fabric with a narrow, textured black-on-black vertical stripe pattern - it's hard to describe, rather simple, but incredibly pretty. I'll have to get some pictures of the various items I've made from it - that skirt I split during the Nitzer Ebb show, for instance.
The corset is going to have a functional button closure over the busk, anyway, because I'm sick and tired of looking at busks, but I love buttons. I happen to have the perfect buttons making their way here across the Atlantic as I write - namely, these babies:



Black plastic, American Red Cross. No idea how old they are - not very, I think, which is just as well, because that means that they will hopefully stand up to gentle machine washing. Pretty, pretty, pretty! I'm fond of uniforms, military styling and details in general; I've even done a tiny bit of collecting in the past, although mostly just female uniforms that I could wear myself, most of them nurse uniforms. These buttons speak to that side of me (mostly they said "buy us! buy us!").
They will be gorgeous on a strict little corset, with a pencil skirt in the same fabric, a plain cotton shirt with short puff sleeves, striped cotton shoulder straps, buttoned down with a couple of these, and a garrison cap in the same striped cotton with yet another one of these buttons in front.
Lovely.
.

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